Nicky's Notes: Days 7 and 8 of Ride West

The Pacific at San Simeon is covered by the marine layer of fog as I enjoy my morning coffee on the beach. San Simeon is the home of the Hearst Castle, a must see when in this area of the Central California coast. We visited the Castle a few years ago, so Brooke and I decide to bypass it on this trip.

We do get a wonderful view of dozens of Elephant Seals sunning themselves on the beach as we leave San Simeon. CA Hwy 1, or the PCH is an amazing road consisting of twists and turns, numerous elevation changes, and some of the most varied vegetation and climate changes I have experienced. One moment you are riding in the sun high above the Pacific, and the next you are traveling through a forest of evergreens and eucalyptus trees right out of Narnia. In this part of the state, cattle ranches intersect with the beaches and cows are more numerous than seagulls.

Right in the middle of the Big Sur region is a stop called Nepenthe. A restaurant with million dollar views built 70 years ago, beckons us as we ride by. Stopping in for an early lunch was the right choice. The food was delicious and the views incredible. Big Sur is chock full of hiking, camping, and other outdoor activities. For a motorcycle rider, this stretch of the PCH is beyond compare. The tight turns and constant up and down are a challenge for any rider, regardless of your experience. I saw more Maserati's and Ferrari's on this part of the PCH than probably exist in all of Texas. Not sure whether there was a sports car event of just everyone with a convertible wants to drive this road.

We decide to catch the 17 mile drive in Carmel on our way back, and make our way on into San Francisco, arriving right at rush hour. Staying on the PCH, I avoid the freeways, and traffic is not too bad. Lane splitting is legal in CA, so every time traffic stopped, I would just ease up to the front of the line and keep moving.

Arriving at the Golden Gate Bridge, I hang a right and ride through the Presidio on the way to our hotel on Fisherman's Wharf. The Presidio was formerly a military base established in 1776. A part of the National Park Service, Lucas films is now located there along with many other organizations. An amazing complex, it is still undergoing renovations.

Riding a fully loaded Harley with a passenger in San Francisco is a new experience. The hills and traffic test all of my defensive driving skills. For dinner, we ride to Flour+Water, a hipster Italian place in the Mission District. Brooke has been wanting to go here for two years, so for her this is a dream come true. Ordering the tasting menu, a sampling of five pastas, and dessert is the choice for the evening, and we were not disappointed. Riding back to the hotel, I enjoy my cigar for the evening, and call it a night.

For breakfast today, Brooke has another destination in SF that she has planned on. Tartine Bakery and Cafe was the destination, and again, she was right on. The croissants were amazing, and worth the wait in a long line.

The iconic Golden Gate Bridge is familiar to everyone. Riding across it with fog skimming the top spires, while looking ahead to the town of Sausalito was a treat, and an experience never to be forgotten. Exiting the 101 and slowly winding our way into Sausalito, we stop for a look around the picturesque little town. Hard to imagine that people actually live here, it's so beautiful.

Getting back on the PCH, a detour is necessary, b/c the PCH is closed near Stimson Beach. The detour is a Godsend, b/c it takes us to the turnoff for Muir Woods, a National Preservation Site of a giant Redwood Forest. I had read about this, but forgotten it was here. Stopping, we take the two mile scenic hike through this forest preserve. Established by President Teddy Roosevelt and named after John Muir, an author and naturalist of the the early part of the 20th century, it was the site of the original meeting of the Bohemian Club. President FDR also called for a meeting of the United Nations officials in 1945 to impress upon them the necessity of cooperation. This meeting was held in a place called Cathedral Grove, a stand of giant Redwoods over 1000 years old. The majesty and timelessness of this place is overwhelming. Today, visitors are asked to maintain a quiet stillness as they walk through.

Continuing up the coast, we stop at a little inn in a small fishing village, Bodega Bay. This is where I sit while writing this missive, overlooking the Bay, listening to the foghorn in the lighthouse, while watching seals play in the Bay.