Day 14 of Ride West

I suppose, technically this is day 2 of ride back east.  Having spent last night near Area 51, I was glad to awake to a normal sunrise, without any aliens or other strange occurrences.   

"If you are old, go to Zion by all means, but if you are young, stay away until you grow older....It is not well to dull one's capacity for enjoyment by seeing the finest first."  Henry Gannett, US Geological Survey.

Zion National Park was my destination for today, and even though it took longer to arrive than I had thought, it was well worth the wait.  Chasing rain all day, and hearing about flooding all over, I expected to have a day filled with rain.  Not to be, I rode most of the morning with occasional sprinkles, but did not even break out the rain suit.

Arriving in St. George, Utah, I took the opportunity to stop at the local Harley store and pick up a quart of oil and have the service guy check out my oil leak.  According to him, it was no big deal, just some leakage through the breather due to hard riding.  Whether answered prayer, or normal wear and tear, 

( I know which I choose), my day seemed much brighter knowing I wasn't facing an imminent breakdown.

The forty following miles to Zion was a rider's delight with twists, turns, curves, and scenery to bring a person to a standstill.  Even though my posts have not done justice to the amazing landscape, it just keeps getting better.

Arriving at Zion, which doesn't seem crowded at all, even though it entertains three million visitors per year, I do notice that most people are speaking other languages; lots of Europeans and Japanese.  Zion is mostly a hiker's paradise, but there are some rides for us bikers, only two really, and the main part of the scenic views are seen via the mandatory shuttle buses.  In order to preserve the integrity of the canyon, and minimize the congestion, free propane powered shuttle buses take visitors along a several mile journey with narration.  With several stops along the way, it is better than driving.

The influence of the early Mormon settlers is apparent, with names of points of interest such as Watchman, Temple of Sinawava, Zion, Mt Carmel Highway, and three prominent mountains in the Court of the Patriarchs; The Organ, The Great White Throne, and Angel's Landing.

Zion is a national treasure, and a stop that should not be missed.

I took a variety of pictures, but once again, they are not loading up to "the cloud", so they aren't in this post.  I'll see if I can get them on FB, if you're bored and need something to look at.

Leaving the park, with rain clouds forming again, I decide to shut down early for the day in the small town at the south entrance, Springdale.  This small valley community, ringed by the majestic cliffs of the park is a delight.  As I unpack for the day, and began a relaxing wind-down with a ten year old Cuban Bolivar cigar given to me a few days ago by John Hawkins, I realize this may be the best cigar I have ever smoked.  A fine ending to a fine day.

My "non chain" lodging for the evening.

A view from my room for the night.

The more amazing view in the opposite direction.

Day 13 of Ride West

With sadness leaving Brooke behind in Venice to spend another long day at work, and gladness to leave congested LA, I ventured onto the 405 heading north on an early Sunday morning.  About the only time I would feel safe riding the 405 on a bike is on a Sunday morning.  As I expected, there was little traffic and I soon exited on CA 14 to start toward the mountains and eventually back east.

My plan was to go north toward Reno, skirting the Sierra Nevada mountains to the west, and avoid Death Valley to the east, eventually crossing Nevada and into Utah.  Hwy 14/385 climbs steadily from sea level to about 4000ft when I turned east near Bishop, CA.  As I got closer to Yosemite and seeing lots of road signs for Mammoth ski area, the pace of traffic picked up both ways with lots of trailers, campers, RV's hauling bicycles and a few Harleys.  It appears the wild fires near Yosemite are not keeping people away.  I read that there were 2600 fire fighters battling a 200 square mile blaze which is huge.  But, when put in perspective, those 200 sq miles were like a dot on the map.  This place is so vast and rugged it's hard to explain.

There were times that the road was so remote, I wouldn't see a car for up to an hour.  On one of those roads somewhere near the CA/NV line, I came upon a Harley and rider on the side of the road.  Not having seen a living soul in about 30 minutes I pulled over to see if he was OK.  It was then I noticed another rider coming our way, and I saw that he was filming his buddy.  His bike radio was blasting "Highway to Hell" by AC/DC and he had his video camera rolling.  He asked me to film the two of them riding together and for a time I stood in the middle of the deserted high desert highway filming their ride  down the long straight road with the mountains in the background.  They were from Switzerland, riding the West for a month.  Speaking flawless English to me and German to each other, we shared our riding stories.  As my friends from New Zealand had told me a couple of weeks ago, they too could not get over the vastness of the American West.  As we departed, he warned me about the dust hazards ahead, and I assumed he just meant the wind was blowing and it was dusty.  Man, was I surprised.  As I crossed a low mountain range, topping out at about 6000 ft, I wound and twisted my way to the valley below.  I could see the dust in the distance.  For most of the day, I had been heading north, and the south wind was at my back.  Now I turned east, and the south wind hit me with all its' fury.  As I shared last week about the wind being bad, this was worse.  Then I saw the road sign that said "Dust hazard ahead"  The highway was covered in dust in the low spots, and it was necessary to go slower than I already was due to the wind.

Coming into Tonopah, NV, it was time to refuel, and make a decision to stop for the day or continue on.  Since it was only 4:30, and I had stopped for a really good lunch a few hours earlier I decided to continue on.  As I left this historic town with an old hotel and casino, I began to wonder if I had made a mistake.  The sign outside town said the next fuel was 163 miles.  Since my Harley has a range of about 220 miles on a normal day, I thought that I would be OK.  In the end, I did have enough fuel, but I once again hit the most horrific winds I have ever faced.  At one point, a dust whirlwind hit me head on and pushed the bike all the way across the highway.  There was no leisurely cruising here, and I was yearning for the earlier part of the day when the wind was at my back.

Nearing the 100 mile mark of this leg, I crossed another mountain range and came into a valley, and the wind was gone.  Opening my face mask, I could now smell the rain that I had seen earlier in the distance.  I was giving thanks to the Creator for bringing me through the wind and dirt, and off to my left appeared a rainbow.   It was as if He was reminding me of His promises to never leave me.  

Forgot to mention this earlier, but the bike developed a small oil leak.  Being the in middle of a desert wilderness, and no Harley shop for hundreds of miles, I asked God to protect me and the bike earlier this morning.  As I saw the rainbow, and the leak seeming to have slowed down considerably, and the wind and dust storm gone, I was reminded of God's great power and majesty.  And, His love for His creation.

Pulling into the first small town I came to, Alamo, AZ,  refueling, and finding a motel, I witnessed an amazing sunset over the mountains I had just crossed.  

Days 11 and 12 of Ride West

Riding through Malibu last week and again on Thursday causes me to remember and reminisce about my years growing up in the 50's and 60's.  I don't know about your formative years, but growing up in small town Texas had its' advantages and sweet memories, but there was also plenty of time for day dreaming, wishing, and yearning for another life.  With one brother ten years older, my friends were my constant companions.  Unlike today, we only had four channels on the TV, AM radio, books, and board games.  Consequently, most of my waking hours were spent outside.  Movies at the theatre in town were a treat, usually reserved for Saturday's.  The local library was also a frequent place I visited, checking out the maximum four books at a time, and reading them either in my room, or on the porch in the summer.  With no A/C until my teen years at home, outside was the best choice in the summer.

Those of you reading this that were born later will perhaps have trouble relating, but here are some of my remembrances that were brought to mind riding through the beach and surf town of Malibu.  The beach movies, Gidget, Beach Party, etc. came out in the 60's.  About fifth or sixth grade, these hit the State Theatre in Gainesville, and how I wanted to see them.  But nope, b/c the girls we were in bikinis (really modest two piece swim suits, compared to now), my dad said no.  So, I sat at home on Saturday afternoons and dreamed of surfing and beach parties, while many of my friends were at the movies.

I was about that time, really into model cars, and cars in general.  The hot car scene in all the magazines was Southen California.  Drag racers such as "Big Daddy" Don Garlits, and custom car builders such as Carl Casper and George Barris designed cars that were a young kid's dream.  There's even a FB page today for these guys.  www.facebook.com/showrods.

So, as I would ride around town on my lime green Schwinn StingRay bicycle, I would imagine I was in Malibu or Ventura or somewhere on the beaches that the Beach Boys sang about.  I had a "girlfriend" in the fourth grade, Donna Culp.  That next summer, she moved to Southern California, and I really began to dream about surfing, and California girls.  A few years later, she moved back to our town, tanned with long blonde hair, but, alas, our fourth grade romance was not to be resumed.  She was, as I recall, the epitome of what I thought California girls all looked like.  Apparenly, I was not what California boys looked like, and we went our seperate ways.

I did, however, achieve some measure of satisfaction of dreaming of sunny Southern California, by exchanging the Schwinn Sting Ray for a black Honda 50, my first introduction into motorcycles.  I traded a go-cart and some money I made from my paper route to Bill Murray's dad, who ran the local motorcycle shop.  Talk about freedom!!!  Occasionally disobeying my parent's rule of not going out of town, I would ride on the country roads and occasionally further.  Being able to finish my paper route in record time, I would mow lawns in the summer, and before long, I traded in the Honda 50 for a bright red shiny Honda S 90.  I don't recall whether it was new or used, but it wasn't long until I began to "customize" it by removing the front fender and adding a megaphone pipe to make it as loud as possible.  Helmets were not required, and in my mind not necessary back then, I terrorized the neighborhoods, and would often have a girl riding on the back with me.  Only once did I crash, hitting a car that pulled out in front of me one day as I was almost home from my paper route.  Fortunately, I was not hurt, and the bike was fixable.

Summer nights were the best, with me and my friends often "camping out" in the back yard.  We were in junior high by now.  After our parents were asleep, we would walk around town, especially  on the weekends looking for the girls houses where slumber parties were being held.  Back at our "campsite" we would stay up all night listening to Wolfman Jack.  He was on an all night AM station XERF, broadcasting from Ciudad Acuna, Mexico.  Because it was across the border, their signal was much stronger than allowed in the US, and could be heard all across North America.  We would also listen to WNOE in New Orleans, and WLS from Chicago.  My friend, Dean, whose back yard we stayed in, was an amateur astronomer; and had a telescope.  We would look at the stars and planets, and he taught me about all the constellations.  

Another favorite weekend and summer night activity was to spend the night at Rodney Robinson's house.  He lived with his grandparents, and had his own apartment with a seperate entrance.  We could come and go with no worries of getting caught.  It was here I learned to play poker, often betting with matches or pennies, since we were all broke (having spent all our money on our motorcycles), and learning how to smoke cigars, Swisher Sweets.  Rodney had a Honda 250, much faster than my S 90, but he would let me keep up with him when we would ride together.

Today, since Brooke was at work all day, I spent some time riding around Venice and Marina Del Rey, visiting the beach, and watching the sailboats leave the harbor for a day of riding the wind.  This part of  Southern California is probably much different than in the 60's, but maybe not so much.  The surfers are still out, the hotrods are still cruising Hwy 1, motorcycles are in abundance, and Venice Beach is as crazy as always.  California deamin.................

Day 10 of Ride West

Awakening to the sound of seals barking in Monterey Bay, I can say this is a day of riding that will not rate towards the top of the list.  Via the 101, it's about six hours on a bike to LA.  Brooke needs to be back for work by late afternoon, so we have decided just to take this direct route and forego the ride further south down the PCH.

Technically, I am sticking to my rule of no Interstates, since the 101 is a US Hwy and is merely just a four lane road in some parts, but it's mostly freeway.  It has little truck traffic, since the 5 is the major route north to south.  

Riding this road is a picture window into the diversity that is central and coastal California.  Leaving Monterey towards the east is a lot like the Hill Country.  This area is dotted with cattle ranches and rolling hills.  Once we cross the coastal mountains, we enter into the most diverse and fertile valley you can imagine.  With mountain ranges both to the east and west, this fertile valley extends for hundreds of miles.  These mountain ranges and the fog that rolls in keeps the area cool in the summer and warm in the winter, ideal for growing a large variety of produce.  Wine grape vineyards cover the hillsides and flat areas alike.  These give way to vast fields of celery, onions, strawberries, artichokes, and other row crops.  The smells I experience on the bike seem like I'm riding through a giant salad bar.  The fields are active with tractors, trailers, and hundreds if not thousands of people picking the various fruits and vegetables.

Approaching Paso Robles, the vineyards start up again.  On a small stretch of valley, oil pump jacks appear.  Only a few are pumping, and I'm thinking if this were Texas, they would all be working and producing the $100 a barrel oil.  I've read that the environmental rules are so tough here, it's really hard to get the oil and gas out of the ground.  CA supposedly has more oil than Texas, but produces much less.  

Arriving at San Luis Obispo, the halfway point between SF and LA, I recall the time Vickie, Brooke, and I spent here a couple of years ago.  We stayed in a unique little inn, the Petit Soleil.  We enjoyed the local food, visited a few vineyards, and mainly just relaxed.

A small college town with great beaches nearby, it is a popular tourist destination, and was the site of the first motel in America.  Originally known as the Milestone Mo-Tel, it signaled the start of the automobile invasion.  A few years later, in 1962, the first Motel 6 was opened just down the road in Santa Barbara.  Originally only $6 per night, they will "still leave the light on for you", but the rooms are slightly more than $6.

Riding through Santa Barbara is just not possible without stopping, as this may be my favorite place in California.  We pull off in Montecito, and have a great lunch of shared swordfish tacos on home-made corn tortillas at Cava cafe.

Now on the home stretch, we exit off the 101 in Oxnard, picking up the PCH, and leisurely ride through  Malibu, Santa Monica, and into Venice, arriving at Brooke's apartment in plenty of time for her to unwind before leaving in her van to load up all the equipment and supplies  for her catering gig tomorrow.

I get to relax at her place and write this, looking forward to a couple of days off of the bike before starting the next leg of my journey.  (Oh yeah, added a few pics to yesterday's post)

Brooke's succulent garden on her balcony in Venice.

Enjoying a cigar on her balcony.

Our lunch spot in Montecito.

Day 9 of Ride West

Maybe it's the fog or the quiet or the tiredness from riding all day; whatever the reason Brooke and I have both been sleeping like the dead.  Oh, here's a side note, checking into the small inns we have been staying at, I have gotten some strange looks when I ask for two beds.  Especially, last evening, the lady at the check in looked at Brooke, and then at me and said; "well we do have one room left with two beds, but it costs more"  Not wanting to explain, I just handed her the card, and said, "That's fine."

A friend reminded me today that Bodega Bay is where the Alfred Hitchcock film, 'The Birds', was filmed.  I can totally see it now.  The little town could have a creepy vibe with the constant cloudiness, fog, and fog horn sounding all the time.

Met an interesting French Canadian from Quebec while having coffee.  He's also riding a motorcycle on a solo trip (an old Honda 750 pulling a trailer).  He's been on the road for two months, traveling from Montreal, across the northern part of the US, up to the Yukon, Alaska, and now into northern CA.  He's going down the coast to SF, then across to Tahoe, then to the Grand Canyon, back up through CO, and hopes to be home by mid November.  The only trouble he had was a flat tire somewhere in Oregon.  Amazing.

We had lunch in Sonoma, and while walking around town, met a guy from Wimberley, TX.  He works at a wine tasting room and wine club while spending half the year in Sonoma.  The other half of the year, he lives in Wimberley, and does a wine business there.  He said Napa is like Dallas, and Sonoma is like Austin.  He prefers Sonoma, and claims Napa is overpriced and over-hyped.  Joined his wine club, so I'll let you know how the selections are.  He has about 100 members from Texas, he said, and customizes your selection for your tastes from the over 100 wineries in the area.  

These are two examples of the most enjoyable things about a trip like this; the people you meet.  For an introvert like me, it's a challenge and an accomplishment both to have these conversations.

This area is full of vineyards on both sides of Hwy 12 from Santa Rosa through Sonoma to Napa.  Known for it's old vine Zinfandel, some of the oldest vineyards date back to the late 1800's.  Most of the newer vines are irrigated, and I'm told it costs over $100k per acre to plant a vineyard, not including the cost of the land.  Makes me appreciate those $30 bottles of wine even more.

Deciding to try and make Monterey by evening, we bust it down I-80 for a while.  HOV lanes are a blessing, and crossing the Bay Bridge with the wind is challenging.  Brooke and I both agree that Interstates on a bike are no fun, and we exit off to the PCH south as soon as we can at Pacifica.  Brooke loves to talk, and I'm a good listener, so this has been a great experience for the both of us.  For both of us, the solitude of riding is energizing between the times of conversation.

Sticking to my rule, we check into a small inn near the wharf in Monterey, have a great dinner at Sands on the wharf (recommended by a local) and walk back to our room under an almost full moon shining over Monterey Bay.  Passing a party on the beach, complete with tiki torches and a band, we enjoy the sights and sounds of the evening.  I am reminded once again of how blessed I am to be healthy, to enjoy being with my daughter on this trip, and share these memories with all my friends.

Early morning at Bodega Bay

Beautiful small church on the way to Sonoma

Coffee stop on the edge of wine country

Lunch in Sonoma.

End of the day in Monterey.

Days 7 and 8 of Ride West

The Pacific at San Simeon is covered by the marine layer of fog as I enjoy my morning coffee on the beach.  San Simeon is the home of the Hearst Castle, a must see when in this area of the Central California coast.  We visited the Castle a few years ago, so Brooke and I decide to bypass it on this trip.

We do get a wonderful view of dozens of Elephant Seals sunning themselves on the beach as we leave San Simeon.  CA Hwy 1, or the PCH is an amazing road consisting of twists and turns, numerous elevation changes, and some of the most varied vegetation and climate changes I have experienced.  One moment you are riding in the sun high above the Pacific, and the next you are traveling through a forest of evergreens and eucalyptus trees right out of Narnia.  In this part of the state, cattle ranches intersect with the beaches and cows are more numerous than seagulls.

Right in the middle of the Big Sur region is a stop called Nepenthe.  A restaurant with million dollar views built 70 years ago, beckons us as we ride by.  Stopping in for an early lunch was the right choice.  The food was delicious and the views incredible.  Big Sur is chock full of hiking, camping, and other outdoor activities.  For a motorcycle rider, this stretch of the PCH is beyond compare.  The tight turns and constant up and down are a challenge for any rider, regardless of your experience.  I saw more Maserati's and Ferrari's on this part of the PCH than probably exist in all of Texas.  Not sure whether there was a sports car event of just everyone with a convertible wants to drive this road.

We decide to catch the 17 mile drive in Carmel on our way back, and make our way on into San Francisco, arriving right at rush hour.  Staying on the PCH, I avoid the freeways, and traffic is not too bad.  Lane splitting is legal in CA, so every time traffic stopped, I would just ease up to the front of the line and keep moving. 

Arriving at the Golden Gate Bridge, I hang a right and ride through the Presidio on the way to our hotel on Fisherman's Wharf.  The Presidio was formerly a military base established in 1776.  A part of the National Park Service, Lucas films is now located there along with many other organizations.  An amazing complex, it is still undergoing renovations.

Riding a fully loaded Harley with a passenger in San Francisco is a new experience.  The hills and traffic test all of my defensive driving skills.  For dinner, we ride to Flour+Water, a hipster Italian place in the Mission District.  Brooke has been wanting to go here for two years, so for her this is a dream come true.  Ordering the tasting menu, a sampling of five pastas, and dessert is the choice for the evening, and we were not disappointed.  Riding back to the hotel, I enjoy my cigar for the evening, and call it a night.

For breakfast today, Brooke has another destination in SF that she has planned on.  Tartine Bakery and Cafe was the destination, and again, she was right on.  The croissants were amazing, and worth the wait in a long line.

The iconic Golden Gate Bridge is familiar to everyone.  Riding across it with fog skimming the top spires, while looking ahead to the town of Sausalito was a treat, and an experience never to be forgotten.   Exiting the 101 and slowly winding our way into Sausalito, we stop for a look around the picturesque little town.  Hard to imagine that people actually live here, it's so beautiful.  

Getting back on the PCH, a detour is necessary, b/c the PCH is closed near Stimson Beach.  The detour is a Godsend, b/c it takes us to the turnoff for Muir Woods, a National Preservation Site of a giant Redwood Forest.  I had read about this, but forgotten it was here.  Stopping, we take the two mile scenic hike through this forest preserve.  Established by President Teddy Roosevelt and named after John Muir, an author and naturalist of the the early part of the 20th century, it was the site of the original meeting of the Bohemian Club.  President FDR also called for a meeting of the United Nations officials in 1945 to impress upon them the necessity of cooperation.  This meeting was held in a place called Cathedral Grove, a stand of giant Redwoods over 1000 years old.  The majesty and timelessness of this place is overwhelming.  Today, visitors are asked to maintain a quiet stillness as they walk through.

Continuing up the coast, we stop at a little inn in a small fishing village, Bodega Bay.  This is where I sit while writing this missive, overlooking the Bay, listening to the foghorn in the lighthouse, while watching seals play in the Bay.

The view from my chair while writing this overlooking Bodega Bay. Our stop at day's end.                                   

Sausalito, looking back at San Francisco

Giant Redwoods at Muir Woods

Our stop for the night in Bodega Bay at Bodega Harbor Inn

Looking out over Bodega Bay.

Days 5 and 6 of Ride West

Arising in the dump of a motel room in Vegas at 4:30, the first thing I do is look out the window to make sure my Harley is still there.  To my relief, it is,  The only reason I'm up at 4:30 is to get an early start across the Mojave desert into LA.  Yesterday's 108 temperature coming into Vegas was not to be repeated, if at all possible.

While loading the bike, one of the "residents" of the motel was quite talkative, he was either just coming in from work, or something else, afraid to ask.  He informed me how great it was living in Vegas after moving there from Santa Monica.  According to him, you can "live like a king on $1200 per month" in Vegas.  This from a guy who was living in the Holiday motel.  He wished me well, and I rode off without my morning coffee, b/c even though the sign said "free coffee", the office didn't open until 8am.  Another note to self, never stay in a motel, where the office doesn't open till 8am.  Guessing most of the "guests" sleep in at this place. 

Riding I-15 to LA is a lot like I-10 in far West Texas, lots of sand, trucks, and wind.  Soon enough I hit LA traffic, and am happy it's a Saturday.  The weather was clear and cool, getting cooler as I got closer to Brooke's apartment near the water in Venice.  Stopping first at Bartel's HD in Venice to pick up a quart of oil and a new pair of lightweight gloves (lost mine somewhere in AZ), I arrive at Brooke's apartment and load up her gear.  She packed really light, and we had plenty of room in the bag for all of our stuff.

Heading west on the PCH, our first stop is at Neptune's Net, a locally famous biker hangout and seafood restaurant in Malibu.  The clams and shrimp were delicious, the hundreds of bikes were fun to look at, and the people interesting.

Next stop in a couple of hours was at our friend's house in Santa Barbara, Kevin and Chrystal Sturm.  They are always so hospitable to us when we visit.  We have stayed with them several times, and each time is great.  We try to reciprocate by letting them swim in the pool at home when they visit family in Arlington, but we definitely get the best end of the deal.  They find a sitter for Mia and Brody, and we go to one of our favorite places in SB, the Palace grill.  www.palacegrill.com  Plenty of cajun food, drink, and conversation ends a wonderful day of memories.

Sunday morning calls for a visit to Reality Church with the Sturms in SB.  They meet at SB High School, and we enjoy a great time of praise and worship.  Their teaching pastor reminded me of my son, Chris, in many ways.  His delivery, energy, and interesting mix of clothing.

It's really great knowing a local, b/c they know all of the out of the way quirky places.  They take us to the Cold Springs Tavern, a remote biker hangout/restaurant/historic stop on the Wells Fargo stage line.  

Operating continuously since 1861 as a saloon, and way station, not much has changed.  The buildings are original, and this place is as cool as anyplace I've been.  Disney worked really hard to make Frontier Land look like this, and this could have been the model, but it's real.

Brody Sturm is the newest Harley enthusiast, and we left Cold Springs Tavern, with him begging his dad to get a Harley, and teach him to ride.

Riding further north up the PCH, the temperature drops from about 100 inland where we were, in the Santa Ynez Valley to around 50, as we pulled into Pismo Beach.  Necessitating a clothing change stop, we layer up with more and continue onward riding in and out of sun and fog.  As the fog is rolling in, we decide to stop for the day in San Simeon, at the southern end of Big Sur.  Home to the Hearst Castle, this small beach town is just the place for dinner and sunset viewing.  We view the sunset as the sun drops through the marine layer.  The hotel has several roaring fire pits near the beach, and they  really add to the warmth of the evening as the temperature drops with the setting sun.  I am reminded  of how blessed I am to be with family, and able to enjoy the amazing array of miracles by our Creator.

Reality Church at Santa Barbara High School

Newest Harley enthusiast, especially Brody

Cold Springs Tavern, Santa Barbara, CA.

Famous Tri Tip sandwiches. 

Just enjoying the day.